New Rose Book
Announcing a New E Book:
ROSES by John Mason
1st edition published in 2012 by ACS Distance Education
Sample pages and outline at : http://www.acsebooks.com/product-roses-ebook-6078.aspx
Media Review copies available on request from our Marketing Manager - email kate@acs.edu.au
EXTRACT FROM THE BOOK:
Roses are members of the plant family Rosacaea, and of the genus Rosa. The Rosaceae family includes such members as, brambles, strawberries, crab apples, hawthorns, wild cherries, apples, apricots, pears, peaches and so on.
There are more than 100 species in the genus Rosa; mostly prickly shrubs, sometimes climbing or trailing, mainly from temperate climates, normally 5 petals and many stamens inserted on a disc at edge of calyx tube.
Roses have been cultivated since as early as 2000 years BC (in China). Modern roses have largely originated as hybrids of the species roses which have been grown for centuries.
Roses can be grown almost anywhere that people live. You may need to treat roses differently in different climates, but they are remarkedly versitile plants, that once established, are hardier than what many people would imagine.
If you want the best from your roses; always buy healthy plants and choose a sunny well-drained position to plant them in. As they have a shallow, fibrous root system, avoid planting near large trees which have shallow spreading roots. Generally it is also best to avoid planting other plants beneath or immediately adjacent to your roses. Good ventilation and plenty of space around your roses will help reduce the likelihood of disease problems occurring. There are exceptions to this though, such as very hardy cultivars grown in a cottage garden amongst herbs, herbaceous perennials, and other cottage garden plants, or where companion plants are used, such as garlic, provide some protection against pests and diseases.
Providing good soil conditions will help ensure your roses stay healthy. Most roses will tolerate a wide variety of soil types, but prefer reasonable drainage. Adding gypsum to clay soils will help improve soil structure - this means that roots will be able to grow and spread out better within the soil. Adding well-rotted organic matter to the soil will help retain moisture, improve soil structure and nutrition, and help maintain soil temperatures at suitable levels for growth. If your soil has an acid pH adding lime will generally prove beneficial. The lime can be added to the soil prior to planting, or sprinkled onto the soil surface for establishing roses.
Roses respond well to feeding during active growth stages. It is important to note that in warm areas, where there is continual growth over winter, this will require additional fertiliser during this period, relative to the growth rate.
A slow release fertiliser, or well-rotted manure is best. Roots can be easily burnt if they come in contact with strong fertilisers. Be careful to keep rotting material away from the base of the rose. Mulching, particularly during the warmer months, can be very beneficial in reducing moisture loss from the soil, keeping the roots cool, and providing nutrition as any organic material decomposes.
When using a mulch aim to avoid high carbon products like bark or sawdust as they can result in 'nitrogen draw-down'. This can lead to nitrogen deficiency in the rose plants. To overcome this, should it occur, additional applications of ammonium sulphate may be needed.
Watering is essential if a rose is to flower well. Don't let plants dry out. Avoid watering or splashing the foliage, as this can encourage the development of diseases such as black spot, rust & mildews. It is better to make a dish in the soil at the base of a plant and fill it with water to allow slow penetration, or to install a drip irrigation system, with at least one dripper to every rose plant, preferably two or three drippers per plant to get a more even coverage of water. If you need to water using a hose be very careful when watering from above – don’t spray the soil beneath the roses bushes, as this can splash up spores of fungi, such as black spot onto lower leaves of your rose plants.
To improve blooms and shape - Prune!
Annual winter pruning is essential to rejuvenate the plant and encourage growth of young wood (flowers form on these young shoots...the more young shoots, the more flowers). In temperate climates, at least half of the top growth is removed each winter, and any dead or diseased, or spindly growth. In snow areas cut plants back very hard (up to 95%) and cover with straw over winter. Always prune back to a bud facing in the direction you want the new growth to go. For example on an open centred vase shaped plant you will want to prune to an upward and outward facing bud to clear the centre of the plant. For a climbing rose it will be an upward bud, for an established weeper it will be to an outward bud and the majority of the upward young shoots on a weeper are reduced to minimize upward growth and encourage the downward weeping effect.
In districts where growth does not cease (eg. tropics), a harsh annual pruning is not performed as this removes many blooms. In such districts regular light pruning is generally carried out - occasionally an annual prune is used to rejuvenate an old overgrown rose.
Roses are usually budded (a form of grafting using a single bud). When you prune them do not cut below the point where the budding has been done. Plants pruned regularly can last more than 100 years.
Roses are sold in two ways- as bare rooted specimens in winter; or potted plants at other times of the year or in winter in warm districts. You will usually find the best selection of plants (range & quality) in early winter when they are first released onto the market. Buying a potted rose has benefits in that you can see the growth habit, health and usually blooms prior to purchase. This is a good way to guarantee you are getting exactly what you want.
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